The camphor tree at Kaisei-ji Temple/クスノキ

In 1928, the area around the Nishinomiya city hall was largely wetland. The centre was located close to the sake breweries that flourished at the time. Redevelopment began with the construction of the Hanshin Railway in 1905. A public market came in 1918, and then, the national highway in 1927. Despite all the construction, a number of old trees were retained. The city designated them as protected trees, saving them from harm.

The camphor tree by Kaiseji Temple is one such tree. Towering over 35 meters, this is a large tree. The trunk itself measures 5.8 metres. Said to have been planted in 1394 when the temple was started, the tree has lived through rebellions, wars, natural disasters, and changing civilizations. These events seem far away, historical events that one reads about and can’t quite place.

But there are several blogs online of people encountering this tree in the 20th and 21st century too. One writer narrated about the impression the tree left on him when he visited the temple to attend the funeral of a friend who died in the JAL 123 aircrash of 1985. The flight from Tokyo to Osaka carrying several prominent business folk, crashed leaving only 4 survivors. Another talked about visiting the tree several years after hearing about it on the radio through a comedian she liked. One person wrote simply about how large the tree was and how magnificent it looked against the orange gate of the temple.

There are other protected trees in the near vicinity but perhaps for its age, or perhaps because of how it towers over the temple as though protecting it, people passing by often stop by this camphor tree, taking photos, or just to take a short break.

One wishes to communicate with this ancient being. Hello. What language do you speak? Is there anything you need? Do you contemplate monotony or motivation? What was he like, the priest who made this temple in 1394? What were they like, the people who came here before me? How did they overcome challenge and change and war? How did they find peace? And what about you?

Yes, I’m listening.

Access – About 10 minutes walk east from Hanshin Nishinomiya Station. More information here.

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